Balık ekmek is a Turkish street food dish which, in its simplest form, represents grilled fish placed inside half a loaf of bread. It is not complicated gastronomy.
This sandwich is inextricably linked to Istanbul and the waters of the Bosphorus. Its history dates back to the mid-19th century, when fishermen on their boats began grilling fresh catches right on deck so they could immediately sell them to hungry passersby on the shore. It was not the food of sultans nor palace cuisine, but a quick and cheap lunch for workers, sailors, and merchants. The name is simple and descriptive – “balık” means fish in Turkish and “ekmek” means bread.
It is a nice example of how a city living by the water can utilize its resources in the most natural way, where the journey from water to plate (or rather to hand) is shortened to the absolute minimum.
The basis is a fattier fish that can withstand the heat of the grill and does not dry out. Today, mackerel is most commonly used. The bread is a classic Turkish white loaf, which has a soft crumb capable of soaking up the fish fat. Inside, onion and a bit of lettuce must not be missing. The seasoning is minimalist – salt, red pepper, and the essential lemon juice, which lightens the flavor of the whole dish.
Preparation is quick and usually takes place right before the customer’s eyes on large grates. Fish fillets are placed on a hot grill, where the skin immediately begins to sizzle and turn golden. The cook often presses the cut bread crumb-side down directly onto the grilling fish even before placing it inside. This warms the bread, gives it a smoky aroma, and soaks up some of the released fat, so the flavors merge even before the first bite. The fish must be watched to ensure it remains juicy and does not fall apart, while the vegetables are added at the very last moment to remain cold and crunchy in contrast to the hot meat.
Balık ekmek is eaten exclusively with hands, often while standing or on small plastic stools right by the water. You get it wrapped in paper, which catches the escaping juice and oil. You only have to watch out for potential bones, which unfortunately sometimes belong to this authentic experience.
I tasted balık ekmek in Istanbul by the Bosphorus, but I avoided the tourist hustle at the Galata Bridge and headed to the Asian side to the Kadıköy district. The stall stood a short distance from the ferry terminal, where the smell of salt water mixed with the smell of grilled fish. The fish was freshly taken off the grill, the skin was perfectly roasted until crispy, and the bread was soaked with just the right amount of fish fat and lemon, while the onion provided the necessary kick. One portion cost 30 TRY (1.60 EUR).
Bon appétit!
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