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Tasting Menu

Dan Špaňhel Updated No Comments

A tasting menu is a way of dining where the chef serves you a series of smaller courses - usually 5 to 10 - and uses one plate after another to show you what they can do and how they think about food. For a long time, when I traveled, I steered clear of restaurants where dinner takes three hours - I put my faith in street food and cheap bistros and skipped the fancier places on principle.

That approach fell apart in 2021 at La Table de Montaigne in Bordeaux: the dinner where my road to fine dining began. These days, before every trip, the first thing I figure out is where I'll have dinner.

An amuse bouche at La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise ⭐ in Prague: Czech tomato sauce that diners lick straight off the little plate.
An amuse bouche at La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise ⭐ in Prague: Czech tomato sauce that diners lick straight off the little plate.

How a Tasting Menu Works

The portions are smaller than on a regular menu - the idea is to taste as many flavors as possible, not to be full after the third course. The number of courses usually doesn't include the little bites sent out by the kitchen at the start (amuse bouche) or the small sweets at the end (petit fours) - so in reality you'll eat more than the number on the menu promises. Plan on two to four hours at the table, and expect virtually every restaurant to require the same tasting menu for the whole table: that way the kitchen can serve everyone at once and the evening has a shared rhythm. You'll almost always need a reservation, and at the most renowned places you can easily be booking weeks in advance.

And the dress code? Most of the time nobody enforces it. That evening in Bordeaux, standing in the doorway in a summer shirt and dark shorts, I cautiously asked whether I was even dressed appropriately. "You are always dressed correctly, sir," the manager replied, and showed me to my table with a smile. It was the only test of the evening - and the staff passed it for me.

Torched smoked eel with plum hoisin and quince: a course from the tasting menu at Field ⭐ in Prague.
Torched smoked eel with plum hoisin and quince: a course from the tasting menu at Field ⭐ in Prague.

Some restaurants offer a tasting menu with choices - you might pick from three starters and two mains. I like this version because it gives me control over what I get to taste. But I'd rather be surprised: with a blind tasting menu, you don't know the lineup of courses in advance, and the chef puts it together based on whatever ingredients are on hand that day. Luckily, I don't have any food allergies and I eat pretty much everything, so I love blind menus. If you have an allergy or dietary restrictions, mention them when you book - a good kitchen will work around them, but it needs to know ahead of time.

At the far end of the scale is carte blanche. At La Table de Montaigne, you just let them know about any allergies and the kitchen sends out whatever it sees fit. Marie B in Prague goes even further: you can't tell what the courses are even once they're served, and you only find out what you've actually eaten after you've finished. It was there that I realized I'd spent several hours thinking intensely about nothing but the food in front of me. I also had a blind menu at Dimora Ulmo in Matera, Italy, where the choice of dishes was entirely up to the chef.

Catfish cooked in duck fat on cabbage with wild garlic: a course from the tasting menu at La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise ⭐ in Prague.
Catfish cooked in duck fat on cabbage with wild garlic: a course from the tasting menu at La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise ⭐ in Prague.

Pairings: Wine, Non-Alcoholic and Tea

With a tasting menu, you can treat yourself to a pairing: the sommelier picks a glass of wine for each course to complement or highlight the dish. The right wine can do remarkable things for the flavors of a dish - at Entrée in Olomouc, the sommelier's explanations were knowledgeable and pleasantly relaxed at the same time, though with Czech cooking I'd have liked to see more bottles from Moravia.

More and more often, though, I go for the non-alcoholic pairing - and it's no longer just a fallback. At Field, it's very nearly a fully fledged alternative to wine: plum with chamomile, quince with hazelnut, or cranberries with pine needles. At La Degustation, the elderflower lemonade instantly took me back to my childhood, when my mom and I used to go out picking elderflowers, and the grape soda brought back memories of my grandfather and his soda siphon. At El Camino, I'd planned to stay off alcohol all evening - the staff just gave me a conspiratorial wink, and a bottle of Copenhagen Sparkling Tea landed on the table. And at Papilio, they even offer a tea pairing - clean, clear flavors that consistently complement the food without ever overpowering it.

Jerusalem artichoke done the pommes Anna way with whey and kale: the most beautiful-looking course of the tasting menu at Vallmo in Prague.
Jerusalem artichoke done the pommes Anna way with whey and kale: the most beautiful-looking course of the tasting menu at Vallmo in Prague.

Tasting Menus I'll Never Forget

I've eaten most of my tasting dinners at home in Czechia - I put together an overview of the award-winning places in my article on Michelin restaurants in Czechia. On December 11, 2025, Jan Knedla's Papilio became the first Czech restaurant to earn two Michelin stars ⭐⭐ - and the carrot with miso and pistachios, a visual illusion I completely fell for, was the standout moment of the whole dinner. Radek Kašpárek's Field has held on to its star since 2016, and its ten-course menu, much of it finished right at your table, is a front-row ticket to a three-hour show. La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise holds a star while cooking exclusively with Czech ingredients and recipes - and I'd recommend its five-course menu to Czechs and tourists alike without a second thought.

Carrot, miso, pistachios and tarragon: the standout moment of the tasting menu at Papilio ⭐⭐ in Vysoký Újezd.
Carrot, miso, pistachios and tarragon: the standout moment of the tasting menu at Papilio ⭐⭐ in Vysoký Újezd.
Ravioli with white truffle, cheese and chestnuts: the tasting menu at Papilio ⭐⭐ in Vysoký Újezd.
Ravioli with white truffle, cheese and chestnuts: the tasting menu at Papilio ⭐⭐ in Vysoký Újezd.
A duck pâté bonbon with gooseberry gel: the tasting menu at Field ⭐ in Prague.
A duck pâté bonbon with gooseberry gel: the tasting menu at Field ⭐ in Prague.

A star isn't a requirement, though. At Vallmo by the Náplavka embankment, eating pike with horseradish sauce, I searched my memory in vain for a time I'd had anything better - quite possibly never; it was my second visit, three years after the first, and I left itching to book the next table right away. At Přemek Forejt's Entrée, I had what was probably the best mushroom soup of my life. Na Kopci has held a Bib Gourmand every year since 2015, and El Camino tapas serves its tasting menu as a shared Spanish feast.

Pike with horseradish sauce, Swiss chard, pumpkin and currants: the high point of the tasting menu at Vallmo in Prague. I don't think I've ever had a better horseradish sauce.
Pike with horseradish sauce, Swiss chard, pumpkin and currants: the high point of the tasting menu at Vallmo in Prague. I don't think I've ever had a better horseradish sauce.
Duck aged for twelve days with cabbage, carrots and a crispy potato pancake: the tasting menu at Vallmo in Prague.
Duck aged for twelve days with cabbage, carrots and a crispy potato pancake: the tasting menu at Vallmo in Prague.

Abroad, I've had tasting menus in France, Spain, Italy, Greece and Portugal, among other places. Besides La Table de Montaigne in Bordeaux, I have fond memories of La Tasquería in Madrid, where Javi Estévez earned a Michelin star with a menu built around offal. In Nantes, I had dinner at the Michelin restaurant Roza ⭐ as well as at Sources, in Athens at the Michelin restaurant Hytra ⭐, and in Porto at chef Angélica Salvador's In Diferente.

The entrance to Dimora Ulmo in Matera, Italy: a gateway to another world, with an experience waiting on the other side.
The entrance to Dimora Ulmo in Matera, Italy: a gateway to another world, with an experience waiting on the other side.

But the most powerful tasting menu I've ever had was at Dimora Ulmo in Matera, Italy - during covid. There were maybe five of us in the restaurant, and the whole blind menu was practically ours alone. The day before, I'd had dinner at the Michelin-starred Vitantonio Lombardo ⭐, so the bar was set very high - and Dimora Ulmo still came out on top, perhaps partly because of those strange times. Vitantonio Lombardo, the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Matera, tucked away in a cave, won me over in its own way with a dessert called L'ultimo Bacio (The Last Kiss): red lips on a plate and no cutlery - they told me to lick them straight off the plate, and played love songs in my headphones while I did. The most fascinating combination of taste, hearing and touch I've ever experienced in a restaurant. In Matera I also managed to fit in Ego, and in Turin the Michelin restaurants Condividere ⭐ and Scannabue.

Amuse bouches before the start of the tasting menu at the Michelin restaurant Dimora Ulmo in Matera, Italy. This menu was blind - the choice of dishes was up to the chef.
Amuse bouches before the start of the tasting menu at the Michelin restaurant Dimora Ulmo in Matera, Italy. This menu was blind - the choice of dishes was up to the chef.
The L'ultimo Bacio (The Last Kiss) dessert from the tasting menu at the Michelin restaurant Vitantonio Lombardo ⭐ in Matera, Italy. The most fascinating combination of taste, hearing and touch I've ever experienced in a restaurant.
The L'ultimo Bacio (The Last Kiss) dessert from the tasting menu at the Michelin restaurant Vitantonio Lombardo ⭐ in Matera, Italy. The most fascinating combination of taste, hearing and touch I've ever experienced in a restaurant.
One of the courses from the tasting menu at the Michelin restaurant Condividere ⭐ in Turin, Italy.
One of the courses from the tasting menu at the Michelin restaurant Condividere ⭐ in Turin, Italy.
The interior of the Michelin restaurant Condividere ⭐ in Turin, Italy.
The interior of the Michelin restaurant Condividere ⭐ in Turin, Italy.

To me, a tasting menu is a chef's story told over several hours - and it still holds true that before every trip, the first thing I figure out is where I'll have dinner. Would you take your chances on a blind menu, or do you prefer to pick your own courses?

Dan Špaňhel

Dan Špaňhel

I'm Dan. I only write about what I've tasted myself - from street food stalls to Michelin stars. I've travelled half the world for food and tried everything possible - even the impossible.

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