Erzurum göğermiş is a traditional Turkish cheese with a specific fibrous structure permeated by green noble mold. The base is “civil peyniri”, a fat-free cheese formed by long cheese strands, which is left to age under controlled conditions until mold takes hold between the individual strings. The result is a visually interesting mixture of white and yellowish strands that are covered and permeated by deep green to blue patches. The taste is exceptionally intense.
The home of this cheese is the Erzurum province, a harsh region with long and severe winters where temperatures drop deep below freezing. It is precisely these harsh conditions that often show how resourceful Turkish cuisine can be. To make this cheese last through the winter and develop flavor (because without fat, cheese is naturally less distinct), they packed it tightly into containers or animal skins. During aging, mold naturally entered the cheese, giving it a specific piquancy. The name “göğermiş” itself refers in the local dialect to the verb “to turn blue” or “to turn green”, which accurately describes the visual transformation the cheese undergoes.
The preparation of this cheese begins when the fresh fibrous civil cheese is salted and allowed to dry partially. Then comes the most important phase – packing. The cheese must be pressed into earthenware vessels, plastic barrels, or traditionally into sheepskins so that only a minimal amount of air remains inside. It is these small air pockets between the fibers that allow the mold to grow; if there were too much air, the cheese would spoil. The containers are then stored in cool cellars or caves, where the cheese ages for several months. During this time, the white fibers gradually become coated with green mold.
Erzurum göğermiş is popular as part of Turkish breakfasts. The cheese is served torn into smaller pieces, often simply scattered on a plate. I tasted Erzurum göğermiş at a gastronomy fair dedicated specifically to the Erzurum province.
Bon appétit!
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