Chaykhana Mam Khalil (چاخانەی مام خەلیل) is probably the most famous teahouse in all of Iraqi Kurdistan. It is hidden within the labyrinth of the old Qaysari Bazaar in Erbil.
It is a small and relatively cramped space, but it is full of life. The walls are literally invisible. Every square centimeter of plaster, vault, and ceiling is covered with framed photographs. There are thousands of them. Black-and-white portraits, faded color snapshots, politicians, poets, kings, and ordinary regulars.
This teahouse is a small unofficial archive of the city. Its history dates back to 1952, when it was founded by Khalil Salih, known as Mam (Uncle) Khalil. Originally, it was a place where men from the bazaar gathered to rest after work, discuss politics, or close a deal. In Iraqi culture, the teahouse (chaykhana) is a social hub, the equivalent of our pub, but without alcohol. Mam Khalil spent his entire life here. When he passed away in 2015, his son Mohammed took the reins and continues to uphold the tradition.
The photographs on the walls are not random decorations; it started as a way for Mam Khalil to remember his friends and distinguished guests. Over time, the collection grew to massive proportions, mapping the turbulent history of the region—from the days of the monarchy through dictatorships to the present. You will find photos of British diplomats next to photos of Kurdish Peshmerga. It is a visual diary that says that even though regimes change, tea is always drunk.
The basis of the menu here is, of course, tea. Proper, strong, black tea. The second essential “ingredient” is sugar. Lots of sugar. The tea in this teahouse holds the first place for sweetness among all the teas I drank in Iraq. And I drank quite a few.
The tea reaches you on a small ceramic saucer, so hot you can barely hold it in your fingers. It costs double here (500 IQD/0.30 EUR) compared to other teahouses, but here you are happy to pay that price.
Because here, it is not tea for thirst; here, it is tea for slowing down.
You can get more information about Mam Khalil Teahouse by clicking on the link on the map (unfortunately, the location is not exact):
