Masgouf: Iraqi National Dish

Masgouf (المسكوف) is a dish made from a carp-like fish that is slow-grilled over an open fire in a specific way. It is one of the most acclaimed dishes of Iraqi cuisine. It is often referred to as the Iraqi national dish.

The history of masgouf reaches deep into the past; the preparation technique likely evolved in ancient Mesopotamia, where the Euphrates and Tigris rivers provided an abundance of freshwater fish, and grilling over an open fire was among the oldest cooking methods.

The basis for authentic masgouf is a freshwater fish from the carp family, which is suitable for this preparation due to its fatty meat. During slow grilling, the meat thus remains juicy and does not dry out. The fish must be absolutely fresh. Traditional restaurants keep fish alive in tanks until the moment of ordering. After being caught, the fish is killed by a blow to the head, descaled, and cut lengthwise along the back, not the belly. This cutting method allows the fish to be opened like a book. The insides are removed.

The marinade for masgouf is surprisingly simple and lets the natural taste of the fish stand out. The base consists of coarse salt, which is rubbed thoroughly into the meat. Sometimes tamarind paste or sumac is added for acidity and turmeric for color. In some regions, only salt and olive oil are used. An important part of the flavor is the smoke from the wood over which the fish is prepared. Traditionally, wood from apricot, apple, or other fruit trees is used, giving the meat a specific aroma.

Preparing masgouf is literally a ritual requiring patience and skill. The opened and salted fish is skewered onto two sharp iron spikes, which are driven into the ground near the open fire. The fire pit usually has a circular shape and is called an “altar”. The fish are placed vertically around the fire, not directly above it. This method of indirect grilling allows the fish to bake slowly and evenly; the fat drips down the meat, keeping it moist. The baking process usually takes one to three hours depending on the size of the fish. The chef must carefully control the distance of the fish from the heat source.

In the final stage of preparation, when the meat is almost done, the fish is placed skin-side down directly on the hot coals. This causes the skin to acquire a crispy texture and the meat to separate more easily from the skin.

The result is a perfectly prepared fish with a smoky aroma, crispy skin, and tender, juicy meat inside. Perfection that every visitor to Iraq should taste.

Masgouf is never served alone. A variety of side dishes and salads are served with the meal to complement the taste of the fish. The fish is served on a large tray. After the meal, it is customary to drink strong, sweet black tea.

I don’t like clichés, but masgouf is truly a symbol of Iraqi hospitality. An invitation to masgouf is an expression of respect and friendship. In Baghdad, there is a strong tradition of evening gatherings by the Tigris River, where the scent of grilled fish mixes with the smoke of hookahs and people’s conversation.

The price of this dish in Iraqi restaurants is determined by the weight of the fish in its raw state. A slip of paper with the weight accompanies the fish until the moment of serving. The price at the specialized Shkar Restaurant (see Where to Eat in Erbil) was 18,000 IQD (10.80 EUR) per kilogram. A fish suitable for masgouf usually weighs over two kilograms, so it is a meal for at least two people. The price includes plenty of side dishes, salads, and sauces that are automatically served with the fish. Iraqi tea is also included.

Masgouf is a must-try in Iraq.

Bon appétit!