What to Eat and Where to Eat in Erbil

The cuisine of Erbil, the capital of Iraqi Kurdistan, is strongly influenced by its geographical location in the fertile Mesopotamian region at the foothills of the mountains.

Unlike the southern parts of Iraq, where cuisine is often heavier and spicier, in Erbil there is a greater emphasis on the natural flavor of quality ingredients and the use of herbs growing in the surrounding hills. Sour flavors are popular. Fat, often in the form of clarified butter or tallow, features in local dishes as a legacy of the diet required in the demanding mountain environment.

It is customary to offer guests the best the house has to offer, and the amount of food often exceeds what the diners are able to eat. The main meal is almost always followed by serving strong, sweet black tea in small glasses, which acts as a digestif and an opportunity for further conversation.

What to Taste in Erbil

• Erbil Kebab (كباب أربيل). Although kebab is ubiquitous in Iraq, the Erbil one is famous in its own right within Iraq and differs from the Baghdadi or Mosuli versions. Its uniqueness lies in the use of pure lamb meat with a high fat content, which is ground very coarsely and only salted.
• Erbil-style Masgouf (مسكوف). While masgouf is the Iraqi national dish (grilled carp), in Erbil you will often encounter a variant where the fish is brushed with a special pomegranate and tamarind marinade before grilling, not after.
• Dolma Hewlêr. Kurdish dolma from Erbil is known for being drier and more sour than its Arab counterpart from the south. Locals often add large amounts of sumac and lemon salt, and unlike the Baghdadi version, which is often full of tomato sauce, in Erbil it is cooked rather in its own juices and oil.
• Raisin Sherbet (sherbet mêwij / شربت زبيب). In the streets around the Citadel in Erbil, you will come across vendors of this drink, which differs from common fruit juices. It is made from black dried raisins that are steeped for a long time and boiled with mint, creating a thick, dark, and very sweet drink that is typical for the Old City.
• Cheese with Wild Garlic (penir-e Kurdi / جبن كردي). In the spring, fresh white cheese appears in the markets of Erbil, into which leaves of wild garlic, gathered in the surrounding mountains, are added directly during production. The garlic gives the cheese an unmistakable pungent taste.

Where to Eat in Erbil

• Yassin Kebab. One of the oldest and most famous establishments in the city, evidenced by the constant bustle and high attendance of locals. The main reason for your visit should be their classic lamb kebab.
• Mam Khalil. A historic teahouse hidden in the bowels of the bazaar. Stop here for strong, sweet black tea. The walls are covered with photographs and memorabilia mapping the history of the establishment and the city itself.
• Qeyserî Bazaar. The main city market, where food is both bought and consumed directly in the alleyways. An ideal location for buying and tasting local sweets (baklava), dried fruit, nuts, and spices, or for a quick snack at small stalls hidden among the shops.
• Iskan. An entire street functioning as the artery of nightlife and gastronomy. A great location for an evening walk combined with tasting street food.
• Shkar Fish Restaurant. An ideal place to taste the Iraqi national dish masgouf. I strongly recommend booking in advance.
• Kasa Brnj. A restaurant specializing in the specialty of the same name, kasa brnj. A very simple, almost dietary dish, but great in taste.
• Abu Shahab Restaurant. A renowned establishment for guss (worth visiting if you are staying nearby).

Enjoy your food in Erbil!