Esfahan (اصفهان) is the third-largest city in Iran. Thanks to its rich history, geographical location, and cultural traditions, Esfahan’s cuisine differs from other regions of Iran with its unique dishes, desserts, and sweets.
Food in Esfahan
Historical Influences on Esfahan’s Gastronomy
Esfahan has historically been one of the most important cultural and political centers of Persia. It reached its peak during the Safavid dynasty (1501–1736), when it became the capital of the empire. During this period, local culinary traditions flourished significantly. The wealth of the Safavid court, contacts with neighboring regions, and trade routes enabled the introduction of various ingredients and spices, enriching the local cuisine.
The influence of travelers, merchants, and the diversity of ethnic groups living in Esfahan contributed to the creation of a unique cuisine. Esfahan’s gastronomy was particularly influenced by regions neighboring the city, such as the provinces of Yazd, Fars, or Kashan.
Beryani. A typical dish from Esfahan.
Characteristic Ingredients of Esfahan’s Gastronomy
Some ingredients are particularly characteristic of Esfahan’s cuisine:
Saffron:Saffron is a key ingredient in the local cuisine, used as a seasoning and dye in many traditional dishes and sweets.
Dried fruits and nuts: Almonds, pistachios, and walnuts are especially typical of the Esfahan region. These ingredients are widely used in both dishes and traditional confections.
Rice: Rice is an integral part of Esfahan’s cuisine, often made with special varieties of Iranian rice.
Lamb: Lamb is one of the main types of meat used in Esfahan. It is prepared in various ways, especially grilled or slow-cooked.
What to Eat in Esfahan
Beryani. A traditional Esfahan dish made from finely ground and spiced mutton, fried on a special pan, and served with sangak bread and herbs. This dish is considered Esfahan’s most famous specialty, with a unique recipe and flavor that cannot be found elsewhere in Iran.
Khoresh-e mast. A sweet-and-savory dessert made from yogurt, saffron, sugar, and mutton. It is an absolutely unique Esfahan specialty not found anywhere else.
Gaz. A famous traditional sweet from Esfahan resembling nougat, made from egg whites, pistachios or almonds, and rose water. It is renowned throughout Iran, but its origins are deeply tied to Esfahan.
Gosh-e fil & doogh. A combination of a sour yogurt drink and a sweet pastry, unique to Esfahan.
Poolaki. Thin, round sweet slices resembling caramel, made from sugar, water, vinegar, and saffron. Poolaki is specific to Esfahan.
Ash-e somagh. A soup with a tangy flavor made from sumac, meat, herbs, and rice. It is typical of the Esfahan region due to the availability of high-quality sumac in nearby areas.
Halim bademjan. A creamy mixture of eggplant, meat, garlic, mint, and spices, often garnished with fried onions and nuts. Popular throughout Iran, but the Esfahan preparation has subtle taste nuances unique to the region.
Kabab Hosseini. A traditional kebab made on skewers with meat, tomatoes, onions, and bell peppers, slowly stewed in an aromatic sauce. It is named after the local preparation style, which has a long tradition in Esfahan. Unlike other Iranian kebabs, this one is not grilled over fire, making it less appealing to some (unfortunately, myself included).
Kalleh joosh. A traditional simple soup made from kashk, dried mint, and walnuts, served with bread. A popular quick and tasty home-cooked meal in Esfahan.
Khoresht-e beh. A stew made from quince (beh), meat, saffron, and dried plums, typical of the autumn season. Esfahan is known for its high-quality quinces, making this dish especially popular here.
Azam Beryani. A chain of restaurants specializing in beryani. Highly recommended.
Shahrzad Restaurant. A more upscale restaurant focused on traditional Iranian dishes. Their menu includes fesenjan, kabab Hosseini, and tahchin. The menu is also available in English.
Qeysarieh Café. A rooftop café directly above the Qeysarie Gate on the main Naqsh-e Jahan Square. Entry fee is 2,500,000 IRR (2.80 EUR), which includes one drink (my tip: mango shake with barberries). For me, this is an absolute must-visit, as the rooftop offers stunning views of the entire square. The entrance is inconspicuous, so ask locals for directions.
Haghighat Nut Store. A renowned shop specializing in nuts and other snacks. Very popular among locals; be prepared for a ticketing system with numbers and communication only in Persian.
View from the café above the Qeysarie Gate on Naqsh-e Jahan Square and a mango shake with barberries. Perfection.
Beryani is a regional dish from Esfahan made from minced lamb that is seasoned with aromatic spices, grilled in special pans, and served on traditional Iranian sangak bread. The dish also includes minced lamb lungs. Beryani is complemented by fresh herbs (sabzi khordan) and enjoyed with a refreshing yogurt-based drink, doogh.
Gosh-e fil & doogh is a traditional combination of the sweet dessert known as gosh-e fil and the sour yogurt-based drink doogh, which is typical of the city of Esfahan. Gosh-e fil, meaning "elephant ears," is a fried dessert made from simple dough, soaked in sweet syrup flavored with rose water, saffron, or cardamom. Doogh is a salty and refreshing drink made from yogurt, water, and mint. Together, they create a perfect contrast.
Khoresh-e mast is a unique Iranian dessert from the city of Esfahan. It is made from lamb, thick yogurt, saffron, rose water, and sugar. The dessert is served cold, often garnished with walnuts and barberries. Despite containing meat, it tastes delicate and sweet, with a slightly stretchy texture. Khoresh-e mast is one of Esfahan's most famous regional specialties and, due to its use of meat, one of the most unusual desserts in the world.
Gaz is a traditional Iranian confection resembling nougat. It is made from egg whites and a natural sweet sap called manna, complemented by pistachios or almonds. It originates from the city of Esfahan, where it has been produced since the Safavid dynasty. Originally a delicacy for the nobility, gaz is now a symbol of Esfahan’s confectionery and a popular souvenir.
