Shalgam (شلغم) is a simple yet intriguing Iraqi delicacy made from turnips slowly simmered in date syrup. It is one of the most famous Iraqi street foods. Shalgam is particularly popular during the cold winter months.
The name of this Iraqi dish is derived directly from the Persian and Turkish word for the vegetable itself, the turnip. Although turnips are a common root vegetable in many parts of the world, cooking them in date syrup is unique to Iraq.
The combination of these two ingredients logically stems from the historical agriculture of Mesopotamia. Iraq is one of the world’s largest producers of dates, and the turnip represents an affordable and hardy winter crop here. The pairing of these two staples gave rise to a dish that is inexpensive, nutritious, and deeply rooted in local culinary history.
The base of shalgam is white turnip (Brassica rapa), which is thoroughly cleaned. The key ingredient that defines the character of the entire dish is date molasses, locally known as dibs. The turnips are boiled in a large amount of water enriched with this thick date syrup. During several hours of boiling, the vegetable softens and absorbs the dark liquid, acquiring a deep brown color and a distinctive texture. The inside of the turnip becomes buttery soft, and the flavor features the best of the root’s natural earthiness and the intense sweetness of the dates.
Selling shalgam in Iraq has its own rules and rituals. Street vendors usually roll out their wooden carts or mobile stalls into the streets only in the early evening. The centerpiece of the stalls are huge metal pots or cauldrons, under which gas burners constantly burn to keep the contents simmering. Stalls offering shalgam almost invariably also offer a dish called bagilla, which consists of boiled fava beans with sumac. These two specialties form an inseparable duo of Iraqi street food.
Iraqis consume shalgam from small bowls or plastic cups right on the street. The turnip is served with the hot date molasses broth, which is drunk at the very end.
Although Iraqi shalgam is unique for its sweet preparation, a similar name, şalgam, appears in neighboring Turkey, but in a completely different form. In Turkish cuisine, the term şalgam refers to a popular dark red fermented beverage. It is made by fermenting carrots and turnips, has a distinctly sour and salty taste, and is served cold, for example, as an accompaniment to kebab.
Bon appétit!
