When I wrote about 420 Restaurant in Old Town Square a while ago, I left with the feeling that it was a confident project trying to balance great gastronomy with affordability given its location. Back then, the restaurant offered precise, but sometimes overly complex dishes. Now, after another visit with my family from Moravia, it is clear that the concept has undergone a quiet but significant transformation. The menu has been simplified, prices have dropped, and the overall impression is much stronger.
While many Prague establishments in the city center are constantly raising their prices, 420 Restaurant has taken a step toward the Czech guest. The lowering of the price level and the bet on greater comprehensibility suggest that the restaurant is likely aiming for the Bib Gourmand award, which the Michelin Guide gives for excellent food at a reasonable price.
The changes are evident right from the start. The renowned rolls and bread from the local bakery, which previously served as a complimentary treat from the establishment, are now ordered by guests from the menu. They are served with smoked mustard butter, and I still believe that you would be hard-pressed to find better baked goods in this area. Charging for the former "amuse-bouche" is unfortunately a logical step given the overall reduction in the prices of main courses.
The appetizers clearly declare a departure from experiments. The duck hearts with sour cherries do not seek inspiration in the textures known from the sister Field Restaurant (oh!), but rely on a more traditional, earthier preparation. The beef tongue terrine with horseradish and roasted lion's mane mushroom with a pickled egg only confirm this direction - the ingredients are given the space to shine without unnecessary frills.
The biggest surprise for me lies in the main courses. The smoked beef brisket is accompanied by split pea puree and chokeberries. Split pea puree is a side dish that has almost disappeared from Czech restaurant menus, or survives only in cheap lunch specials. Here, supported by a rich beef jus and tender meat, it shows its full potential. The lamb roulade works similarly. The flavor of the meat and grilled Brussels sprouts is balanced by the slight acidity of the buttermilk potatoes, which gives the dish the necessary lightness.
I had my eye on the veal schnitzel Escoffier for a long time; some friends praised it, while others were less enthusiastic. During my tasting, I was highly satisfied. It is a massive portion with a crispy coating and tender meat that hides a cheese filling inside. It is accompanied by mashed potatoes and gooseberry compote. It is a dish that, with its size and richness, borders on the limits of a single diner.
The desserts retain their playfulness, but they too have toned down the formality a bit. The 420 chaudeau is served deconstructed - the brioche with walnuts and orange sits separately, while you get the chaudeau itself in a mug.
The ice cream sundae with chocolate ice cream and caramel drizzle then represents an uncompromising, voluminous sweet finish.
420 Restaurant has found a position that I think suits it much better. It has abandoned unnecessarily complicated compositions and focused on perfectly executed tradition. Moreover, after the price reduction, it represents an exceptionally attractive choice in Old Town Square in terms of value for money.
Have you visited 420 Restaurant yet?
Bon appétit!
Restaurant website: 420restaurant.cz
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