Txokos: Basque Gastronomic Societies

I have always admired the diversity of culinary traditions. One of the most interesting customs I encountered in northern Spain is the Basque gastronomic societies, also known as txokos or elkarteak.

What Are Basque Gastronomic Societies?

Basque gastronomic societies are private clubs where members gather to cook, eat, and enjoy good food and drink together. These societies have a long tradition in the Basque Country. Membership in txokos is usually reserved for men only, although recently, societies for women and mixed groups have also emerged.

Basque gastronomic societies are renowned for their high level of culinary artistry. Members of txokos are often skilled chefs who pride themselves on the quality of ingredients and the precise preparation of dishes. It is not uncommon for txokos to serve dishes worthy of a Michelin star. It is estimated that there are approximately 1,000 to 2,000 txokos in the Basque Country, with the majority found in larger cities such as San Sebastián (Basque: Donostia), Bilbao, or Vitoria-Gasteiz.

Friendly conversation among a group of Basques over great food and drink.
Friendly conversation among a group of Basques over great food and drink.

History and Tradition of Txokos

The history of Basque gastronomic societies dates back to the 19th century. They originally emerged as places where men could gather to escape everyday worries and enjoy good food and drink in a friendly atmosphere. Over time, txokos became an integral part of Basque culture and social life. Each gastronomic society has its own rules and traditions. Members cook and eat traditional Basque dishes together, such as pintxos (the Basque version of tapas), bacalao (cod), or seafood dishes. An important part of the gatherings is also the consumption of quality wine (local wine txakoli is particularly popular in the Basque Country), beer, or mixed cocktails, and friendly conversations.

🇪🇸 Tip: After enjoying Basque pintxos and txakoli wine, a bit of passive relaxation is in order. Check out these boat cruises in Bilbao or San Sebastián. You will recharge for more tastings! ⛵

Txokos during the Franco Dictatorship

During Francisco Franco’s dictatorship (1939-1975), Basque gastronomic societies played an important role in preserving Basque identity and culture. At a time when the Basque language and traditions were being suppressed, txokos provided a safe space where Basques could freely speak their language and maintain their customs. Gastronomic societies became symbols of resistance against Franco’s regime and helped preserve Basque culture for future generations.

You can find pintxos in txokos, perfect with wine.
You can find pintxos in txokos, perfect with wine.

Txokos and Anthony Bourdain

Unfortunately, I haven’t had the chance to personally visit a Basque gastronomic society, as entry for non-members is allowed only by invitation. My favorite Anthony Bourdain was lucky enough to visit a txoko in his show “No Reservations” (S09E02 dedicated to the city of San Sebastián). Bourdain was thrilled by the unique atmosphere, excellent food, and the warm reception he received in the txoko, and I can’t blame him for his enthusiasm.

Basque gastronomic societies are a prime example of how a love of food and communal dining can bring a community together and preserve cultural heritage. Even though most of us are unlikely to become members of a txoko, it’s an inspiring way to share the joy of food with friends and family.

So, let’s all enjoy (life) to the fullest!

🇪🇸 Tip: If you are traveling to Barcelona, you must not miss a tour of the Sagrada Familia cathedral. A visit to Casa Milà or Park Güell, designed by Gaudí, is also excellent. Be sure to buy tickets in advance to avoid waiting in line.